Irangi ry'imyenda ya JW

Inganda zo gusiga irangi zifite ikibazo
Hariho ibibazo byinshi bijyanye no gusiga irangi imyenda no kuvura, kandi hafi ya byose bifitanye isano no gukoresha amazi menshi no guhumana.Gusiga ipamba cyane cyane amazi, kuko byagereranijwe ko gusiga no kurangiza bishobora gukoresha litiro 125 z'amazi kuri kilo ya fibre.Ntabwo irangi risaba gusa amazi menshi, rishingiye kandi ku mbaraga nyinshi zo gushyushya amazi na parike bikenewe kugirango birangire.

Toni zigera ku 200.000 z'irangi (zifite agaciro ka miliyari 1 USD) zabuze imyanda kubera gusiga irangi no kurangiza neza (Checker et al., 2013).Ibi bivuze ko ibikorwa byo gusiga amarangi muri iki gihe bidasesagura umutungo n'amafaranga gusa, ahubwo binarekura imiti y’ubumara mu masoko y'amazi meza.60 kugeza 80 ku ijana by'amabara yose ni amarangi ya AZO, inyinshi murizo zizwiho kuba kanseri.Chlorobenzène isanzwe ikoreshwa mu gusiga polyester, kandi ni uburozi iyo ihumeka cyangwa ihuye neza nuruhu.Imiti ya perfluorine, formaldehydes na paraffine ya chlorine ikoreshwa mugikorwa cyo kurangiza kugirango habeho ingaruka zokwirinda amazi cyangwa kutagira umuriro, cyangwa gukora imyenda yoroshye.

Nkuko inganda zihagaze uyumunsi, abatanga imiti ntibasabwa gutanga ibintu byose biri mumabara.Raporo ya KEMI yo mu 2016 yasanze hafi 30% by'imiti ikoreshwa mu gukora imyenda no gusiga irangi ari ibanga.Uku kutagira umucyo bivuze ko abatanga imiti bashobora kuba bakoresha ibintu byuburozi mubicuruzwa byangiza amasoko y'amazi mugihe cyo gukora kandi bikangiza abambara imyenda irangiye.

Turabizi ko imiti myinshi ishobora kuba uburozi ikoreshwa mugusiga irangi imyenda yacu, ariko harabura ubumenyi nubucyo kubijyanye numutungo wabo bijyanye nubuzima bwabantu nibidukikije.Ubumenyi budahagije kubyerekeye imiti ikoreshwa biterwa nurubuga rwacitsemo ibice kandi bigoye byo gutanga no gukwirakwiza.80% by'iminyururu itanga imyenda ibaho hanze y’Amerika na EU, ku buryo bigora leta kugenzura ubwoko bw'imiti ikoreshwa mu myenda igurishwa mu gihugu.

Mugihe abaguzi benshi bamenye ingaruka mbi zogukora amarangi yubu, tekinolojiya mishya itanga inzira yuburyo buhendutse, bukoresha umutungo kandi burambye bwo gusiga amarangi.Guhanga udushya mu buhanga bwo gusiga irangi kuva mbere yo kuvura ipamba, gukoresha irangi rya CO2, ndetse no gukora pigment naturel ziva muri mikorobe.Ibishya byo gusiga amarangi birashobora gufasha kugabanya ikoreshwa ryamazi, gusimbuza ibikorwa byangiza nuburyo bukora kandi buhendutse kandi tugerageza guhindura rwose uburyo dukora pigment ziha imyenda yacu amabara meza dukunda.

Tekinoroji idafite amazi yo gusiga irangi rirambye
Uburyo bwo gusiga imyenda buratandukanye bitewe nubwoko bwimyenda.Irangi ry'ipamba ni maremare kandi maremare hamwe nuburyo bukoreshwa cyane nubushyuhe, kubera ubuso bubi bwa fibre.Ibi bivuze ko mubisanzwe ipamba ifata gusa 75% by'irangi rikoreshwa.Kugirango umenye neza ko amabara afashe, imyenda irangi cyangwa umugozi wogejwe kandi ushushe inshuro nyinshi, bitanga amazi menshi.ColorZen ikoresha tekinoroji yemewe mbere yo kuvura ipamba mbere yuko izunguruka.Uku kwitegura gutuma inzira yo gusiga yihuta, igabanya 90% yo gukoresha amazi, 75% imbaraga nke na 90% nkeya yimiti yaba ikenewe kugirango irangi ryiza.

Irangi rya fibre synthique, nka polyester, ni inzira ngufi kandi 99% cyangwa irenga gutunganya irangi (99% by'irangi ryakoreshejwe rifatwa nigitambara).Ariko, ibi ntibisobanura ko imyitozo yo gusiga irangi irambye.AirDye ikoresha amarangi yatatanye akoreshwa mubitwara impapuro.Hamwe n'ubushyuhe bwonyine, AirDye yohereza irangi kuva kumpapuro hejuru yimyenda.Ubu bushyuhe bwinshi butunganya irangi kurwego rwa molekile.Impapuro zikoreshwa zirashobora gutunganywa, kandi amazi 90% akoreshwa.Na none, 85% imbaraga nke zikoreshwa kuko imyenda idakenera gushirwa mumazi nubushyuhe bwumutse inshuro nyinshi.

DyeCoo ikoresha CO₂ kugirango irangi imyenda muburyo bufunze.“Iyo botswa igitutu, CO₂ iba ikabije (SC-CO₂).Muri iyi leta CO₂ ifite imbaraga zo hejuru cyane, itanga irangi gushonga byoroshye.Bitewe n'ubushobozi buke, amarangi atwarwa mu buryo bworoshye kandi bwimbitse muri fibre, bigatuma amabara meza. ”DyeCoo ntisaba amazi ayo ari yo yose, kandi bakoresha amarangi meza hamwe na 98%.Inzira yabo irinda amarangi arenze urugero hamwe n’imiti ikaze kandi nta mazi y’amazi aremwa mugihe cyibikorwa.Bashoboye kwagura iryo koranabuhanga kandi bafite ibyemezo byubucuruzi biva mu ruganda rukora imyenda ndetse n’abakoresha ba nyuma.

Ibara rya mikorobe
Imyenda myinshi twambara uyumunsi ifite amabara dukoresheje amarangi.Ikibazo niki nuko ibikoresho byibanze bifite agaciro, nkamavuta ya peteroli bikenerwa mugihe cyo gukora kandi imiti yongeweho ni uburozi kubidukikije ndetse numubiri.Nubwo amarangi karemano adafite uburozi kuruta amarangi yubukorikori, aracyakenera ubutaka bwubuhinzi nudukoko twangiza udukoko twibihingwa bigize amarangi.

Laboratwari kwisi yose zirimo kuvumbura uburyo bushya bwo gukora ibara kumyenda yacu: bagiteri.Streptomyces coelicolor ni mikorobe isanzwe ihindura ibara ishingiye kuri pH yikigereranyo ikura imbere.Muguhindura ibidukikije, birashoboka kugenzura ubwoko bwamabara.Igikorwa cyo gusiga irangi na bagiteri gitangirana no kwifashisha imyenda kugirango wirinde kwanduza, hanyuma ugasuka ibintu byamazi byuzuyemo intungamubiri za bagiteri hejuru yumwenda mubikoresho.Noneho, imyenda yatose ihura na bagiteri hanyuma igasigara mucyumba kigenzurwa nikirere iminsi ibiri.Bagiteri ni "irangi rizima" ibikoresho, bivuze ko uko bagiteri ikura, iba isize imyenda.Umwenda wogejwe kandi wogejwe buhoro kugirango woze impumuro ya bagiteri, hanyuma ureke yumuke.Irangi rya bagiteri rikoresha amazi make ugereranije n’irangi risanzwe, kandi rirashobora gukoreshwa mu gusiga irangi ryinshi ritandukanye hamwe n’amabara menshi.

Faber Future, laboratoire ikorera mu Bwongereza, ikoresha ibinyabuzima byo mu bwoko bwa sintetike kugira ngo itegure za bagiteri kugira ngo habeho amabara manini ashobora gukoreshwa mu gusiga amabara ya fibre synthique na naturel (harimo na pamba).

Living Color ni umushinga wa biodeign ukorera mu Buholandi urimo no gushakisha uburyo ushobora gukoresha bagiteri zitanga pigment kugirango dusige amabara imyenda.Muri 2020, Ibara ryiza na PUMA bafatanyijemo gukora icyegeranyo cya siporo ya mbere ya bagiteri.

Gutangiza amarangi arambye muri ecosystem yacu
Gucomeka no gukina ushakisha byimazeyo tekinolojiya mishya ifasha gutwara impinduka zikenewe cyane munganda zisiga amarangi.Duhuza gutangiza udushya hamwe numuyoboro mugari w'abafatanyabikorwa, abajyanama, n'abashoramari.

Reba kuri bimwe mubyo dukunda:

Werewool irimo gufata imbaraga muri kamere kugirango itange imyenda y'amabara ikomoka kuri poroteyine.Imwe muri izo poroteyine ikomoka kuri Discoral Coral itanga ibara ryijimye.ADN y'iyi poroteyine irashobora gukopororwa igashyirwa muri bagiteri.Iyi bagiteri irashobora kuboha muri fibre kugirango ikore umwenda wamabara.

Twebwe aRe SpinDye irangi irangi ibikoresho biva mumacupa yamazi nyuma yumuguzi cyangwa imyenda yapfushije ubusa mbere yo kuzunguruka mumutwe.Tekinoroji yabo ishonga ibara ryibara hamwe na polyester yongeye gukoreshwa hamwe idakoresheje amazi, bigabanya ikoreshwa ryamazi muri 75%.Mu makuru ya vuba, H&M yakoresheje We aRe SpinDye® yo gusiga amarangi mugukusanya kwabo kwihariye.

huue.ikora irambye, biosynthetic indigo ubururu bugenewe inganda za denim.Tekinoroji yabo ntabwo ikoresha peteroli, cyanide, formaldehyde cyangwa kugabanya imiti.Ibi bikuraho umwanda mwinshi w’amazi.Aho gukoresha imiti yuburozi, huue.ikoresha isukari mu gukora irangi.Bakoresha tekinoroji ya bioengineering kugirango bakore mikorobe zigaragaza imikorere ya kamere kandi barya isukari kugirango batange irangi ryimisemburo.

Turacyafite akazi ko gukora
Kugirango itangizwa hamwe nikoranabuhanga byavuzwe bitere imbere kandi bigere ku rwego rwubucuruzi, ni ngombwa ko dushora imari nubufatanye hagati yibi bigo bito, n’amasosiyete manini asanzwe yimyambarire n’imiti.

Ntibishoboka ko tekinolojiya mishya ihinduka amahitamo yubukungu ibicuruzwa byerekana imideli bizakoreshwa nta shoramari nubufatanye.Ubufatanye hagati ya Living Color na PUMA, cyangwa SpinDye® na H&M ni bibiri gusa mubufatanye bukenewe bugomba gukomeza niba ibigo byiyemeje rwose kwimukira mubikorwa byo gusiga irangi rirambye bibika umutungo w'agaciro kandi bikareka kwanduza ibidukikije.